For obvious reasons, I don’t think a mix of olives, tobacco, cookie dough, cheese, honey, flowers, raisins, oranges, grapefruit, tannin and salt would please anyone’s – except maybe a Fear Factor contestant’s – palette. It seems more like a torturous blend of tastes or a recipe for the reckless.

Surprisingly, though, they’re all flavors people taste in fine chocolate.

But have you ever tasted anything besides sweet in Hershey’s?

When chocolate is made with pride and care by expert chocolatiers, like a vintner tending to his grapes, unimaginable flavors can be unleashed from the little cocoa bean.

And that’s why Jonathan Wallace, the chocolate buyer for 3CUPS, hosts chocolate tasting classes at the café on Franklin Street throughout the year.

He says that most people forget about the complex process of chocolate making and the flavors it can create.

“Chocolate, like wine or beer or cheese, is one of the world’s great fermented foods,” he said.

During each class, he explains the chocolate-making process, from cocoa bean fermentation to candy bar manufacturing and ingredients, and tells guests what to look for in a good bite of the dark matter.

Oh, and don’t forget that we’re talking about dark chocolate.

“Milk chocolate is a product, it has ingredients that can obscure the true flavors of the cocoa,” Wallace said. “Dark chocolate is the real, pure thing.”

Considering that Americans spent $16.3 billion on chocolate – only a fraction of which was on the good stuff – in 2007, according to the National Confectioners Association’s annual review, they need his advice.

So here’s a list, taken from Wallace’s class, on what you should think about when trying a bit of chocolate. Though everyone’s preference differs, these criteria at least show whether the people who made it cared about what they were doing. (Pay attention because Valentine’s Day is approaching and you should want to impress your sweetheart.)

Appearance – decent sheen, especially on top side; full color throughout, absence of lighter swirls; no air bubbles or grit; should have a good snap when you break a piece off

Aroma – some kind of pleasing scent; usually smoky or vanilla-y based on process

Initial taste – is it citrus-y, fruity, sour, acidic?

Flavor – should differ from the initial taste because melting chemically changes the chocolate; here’s where you should find all those complex flavors – the olives and oranges

Mouthfeel – should be smooth, no grit; how quickly does it melt? does it coat your tongue and feel thick?

Aftertaste – is there a pleasing taste in your mouth? do your lips pucker like you just had a glass of deep red wine?

After consulting the above list at Wallace’s class last week and trying six different bars, I’ll let you know about The Biscuit’s pick for favorite bar:
Valrhona’s 2002 Chuao .

But beware, because apparently the estate in Venezuela where it’s made has closed down, and they won’t be creating anymore.